Camping is great. Whether you’re at an established campground with luxurious vault toilets or you’re deep in the backcountry, there’s nothing that spoils a camping trip more than the remnants of a previous camper’s mess. Something we’ve always stood by is a concept that you’ve probably heard of before: Leave No Trace camping. We aim to leave every spot we camp at nicer than it was when we arrived. Sometimes this is just a matter of tidying up rogue branches that have fallen across the road, while other times this has involved removing actual chicken cutlets from an abandoned fire pit — yes, true story.

Anyway, we figured we’d take this opportunity to create a guide to leave no trace camping for van lifers and talk about how not to be an asshole camper so hopefully next year, we can all enjoy the beauty of nature together without having to step in soggy toilet paper everywhere. Onward!

1. PEE AND POOP PROPERLY

Peeing and pooping are inevitable. Doesn’t matter who you are or where you are, you’re gonna have to relieve yourself eventually (please don’t hold your poop!! Just looking out for your health…). There are many ways that you can go to the bathroom outside that won’t hurt the environment. Here are a few tips:

• Many established camping areas have outhouses or vault toilets. You can use the bathroom like a regular toilet in these but please don’t put garbage in them. The tanks are meant to hold organic waste only so it’s not the place to throw wrappers or cans into.
• If you’re in the woods and need to go, tuck away from any paths or open areas and find a spot that’s far away from rivers or streams (200ft or 60m is recommended). We ALWAYS have toilet paper on us for unexpected situations and we keep it in a bag; this way, we can put the used TP in the bag and dispose of it when there’s a trash can around. If you’re pooping, it’s best to dig a small hole about 6” or 15cm deep so you can cover it up with dirt, rocks or leaves after and leave the area seemingly undisturbed. Burying TP is a no-no in our books so coming prepared with a bag is best to carry your TP out with you. Leaves also work if you don’t have any toilet paper but make sure to bury these in your hole. And if you’re a female on your period, pack away any used menstrual items with your used TP because there’s no place for those things in the woods.
• If you’re in an area where you’re unable to dig a hole to safely bury your poo, it’s not a bad idea to carry a roll of dog poo bags with you so you can remove the solid waste and dispose of it accordingly.
• Pee funnels are an option for ladies so there’s no squatting required. I’ve never personally used one but it’s a neat idea and you can get one here. If you are squatting, make sure to keep a wide stance with your shoelaces out of the way and look for an area with soft dirt or leaves, if possible, so the pee absorbs and doesn’t spread around.
• You can get creative with DIY toilets if you’re not comfortable going au naturel. A 5-gallon bucket with a pool noodle on top makes a pretty comfy seat (or you can get a pre-made version if you’re not feeling crafty) or a designated bottle works too. Just make sure that you’re disposing of the contents in an area that’s far away from paths, campsites, and water and that no garbage gets dumped along with it. If you’re in a van or RV, do not dump your entire black water tank in the woods — that’s just gross and not cool.
• Nowadays this is just a way of life, but carrying hand sanitizer with you is a good idea for post-bathroom hygiene.

2. PACK IT IN, PACK IT OUT

Aside from human waste, it is crucial to bring any trash or unwanted items out with you. The only acceptable thing to leave at a campsite is unused firewood (even that is technically not recommended but most people appreciate it) because no one wants to deal with anything else. Don’t leave any garbage; doesn’t matter if it smells or it’s dirty, you’re taking it out with you and you can always ditch it at a gas station trash can on your drive out. Remove any tarps or rope you attached to trees and try to leave the campsite just as it was—or better–than when you arrived. This means dishwater and food scraps too; even though food is biodegradable, it’s not going to decompose before the next campers arrive. Not only is it gross to arrive at a campsite where people have left food and garbage, it’s potentially dangerous too if there are bears and other wildlife around. Another thing to mention here is to take all of your empty cans with you too and stop, I repeat, STOP leaving beer cans in the fire pit. They never fully burn and just end up creating a mess. In most places they’re worth money too — do you like burning money?!?!?

3. CHANNEL YOUR INNER SMOKEY BEAR AND PREVENT WILDFIRES

The one and only Smokey Bear said it best: Only You Can Prevent Wildfires. This means that you should be conscious of where you’re having a fire and make sure to ALWAYS fully put out your fire before you take off. Here are a few tips:

• Use an established fire ring or pit if one is already there. Lots of places have metal rings or rock mounds that folks in the past have used that you can easily use again. The rock border helps to prevent the fire from growing outside of its confines and absorbs heat to protect you from getting too close.
• Slowly put out your fire carefully by spreading out embers and pouring water on it repeatedly (*Note: I was also going to suggest using sand but I’ve recently learned that this isn’t recommended because it can actually insulate the hot coals so they can potentially ignite later. Now we both learned something!). This takes time and isn’t as simple as pouring a water bottle on a flaming log and walking away. Don’t leave until you are sure that the fire is completely out and the ashes are scattered.
• Always check to make sure the area you’re in doesn’t have a fire ban or heightened restrictions that may require a permit. And respect fire bans, they’re there for a reason.
• If the area has lots of dry brush around or it’s quite windy, find another spot or skip the fire altogether. It’s not worth risking a flaming branch being carried away by the wind into a pit of destruction. It’s always good to have a camp stove like this one as a backup to cook a meal without depending on a fire.
• Avoid burning any garbage that won’t fully disintegrate. I mentioned cans above but even plastic and metal items are common to find in abandoned fire pits.

4. BE BEAR AWARE AND MINDFUL OF OTHER WILDLIFE

These animals were here before us. It’s not cool to run them out and take over some of the last places they have left. If you’re collecting firewood, try to only use fallen branches and not mess with any nests in the trees. In terms of bears, don’t leave any garbage or food items outside, and be especially mindful if you’re sleeping in a tent. Non-food items like deodorant or toothpaste also carry a scent so pack these away in your car or hang them in a tree (try one of these cool kits) if you’re in the backcountry. WildSafe BC has some helpful guidelines to follow when camping in bear territory (in other words, most of British Columbia). It goes without saying that preventative action is much better than dealing with a potentially dangerous wildlife encounter. Be smart and keep your distance if you do spot an animal.

5. RESPECT OTHER PEOPLE

This can encompass a lot of things. Overall, don’t treat your campsite like you’re the only person in the world and respect that other people are trying to enjoy their day or weekend too. A few examples might include:

• Keeping your dog close or on a leash if s/he is not trained well or is not friendly. Even if your dog means no harm, some people are scared of dogs and don’t want to be approached by a strange dog in the middle of the woods. A long lead like this one with a stake in the ground is a good balance when you’re at a campsite.
• Being mindful of noise. Keeping music at a volume that isn’t interfering with other people’s day is ideal because some people go to the woods to enjoy the tranquility. If you do play loud music, turning it down at night is the right thing to do, along with keeping chainsaws or generators for the daytime.
• Be nice 🙂 We can all enjoy the outdoors together as long as we respect one another.

In addition to this list, The Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics has seven principles that are meant to guide both backcountry and frontcountry campers and day-use explorers in enjoying the outdoors with minimal impact. These principles are:

• Plan Ahead and Prepare
• Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
• Dispose of Waste Properly
• Leave What You Find
• Minimize Campfire Impacts
• Respect Wildlife
• Be Considerate of Others

Our Van Lifer’s Guide to Leave No Trace Camping mainly covers tips related to van camping but you can read more about the LNT’s principles here and think about how you can change some of your habits that might not be conducive to protecting the beautiful nature that surrounds us. I’m sure there are things we could improve on as well and it’s never a bad time to make positive changes.

All in all, many of these guidelines are common sense and I’m confident that most, if not all, of our readers and website visitors already do most of these things. I honestly think the best way to pick up on good habits is by experiencing other peoples’ bad habits first hand — any time that we’ve shown up at a spot that’s been a mess, the first thing I think is that I never want to leave a site like that for someone else. Along with the obvious things, we can all afford to learn new things about our impact on the environment and explore what small changes we can make to minimize it. So with that, let’s keep turning down random dirt roads and exploring new places, all while leaving these places just as exciting and beautiful for the next person.

So the main reason for our trip back down to the states was for a show at Red Rocks Amphitheatre that we and friends of ours in Toronto had bought tickets for way back in November. We don’t really plan all that much so we like to have these sort of set-in-stone anchor points to work around and just fill in the blanks in between. It’s also fun to have something to look forward to that always feels like it’s ages away then have it quickly creep up on you. We made our way to Denver the day before our friends arrived to do all of our necessary preparations for having 4 people in the van and of course, do a Planet Fitness shower run. The gross weather was following us and the mountains were nowhere to be seen. It wasn’t exactly the most hype-inducing start to exploring a city that we’ve heard so much about but that wasn’t going to hold us back from getting out there and making the most of it.

Fast forward to the next day when the baseball game we had tickets to got cancelled because of the weather so we led ourselves on a grand brewery tour instead. We hit a few good stops like Great Divide and Jagged Mountain before the rest of the night became a blur and we replenished ourselves with a heavenly pie at Ian’s Pizza. We scored a campsite for the next day at Bear Creek Lake Park – 5 minutes away from Red Rocks – so we headed toward Morrison before the show to do the loop around the grounds as the rain turned to snow. Not exactly ideal weather conditions for an outdoor concert followed by camping in a tent but what can ya do.

The grounds at Red Rocks are super cool and the acoustics of the show were mind-boggling-ly amazing (we saw Vulfpeck and Khruangbin) despite the winter-like temperatures. In search of some warmer weather, we made our way south toward Colorado’s elusive desert after another snowy night in the mountains. We checked out Great Sand Dunes National Park which was one of the coolest places we’ve ever been to. Think White Sands meets the Sahara Desert – but with Rocky Mountains in the background. The Dunes are deceivingly rounded out and make for a pretty scenic workout, especially when Pierogi was having the time of her life and ran the entire time.

The views were spectacular and surreal and didn’t stop when we camped the night at the foot of Blanca Peak, one of Colorado’s tallest mountains. Our wishes for sunshine were also granted in full force and we certainly had the sun burns to prove it. We also got a chance to explore Garden of the Gods Park and the Paint Mines outside of Colorado Springs. Both super cool and super unique.

We spent our last day in Denver soaking up the sunshine, eating Voodoo Doughnuts and drinking beers in the park (because you can) before spending a quick night in a Bass Pro Shops parking lot near the airport with a full house in the van. We’ve never slept 4 inside but now we know it’s possible! Bear in mind I said possible, not necessarily comfortable… After cruising past Blucifer again to drop our buds off at the airport, we made a complete 180 from the beginning of the week and were dying from the heat. Just as we were resenting it a few days earlier, we caught ourselves wishing for a breeze of that cool mountain air. We spent a day working in Boulder and were kind of disappointed by how douchey and clean-cut it was compared to Denver. The Flatiron mountains were pretty beautiful though so that made it all worthwhile.

We drove past hoards of pale, rich high school kids gathered along Boulder Canyon for some sort of let’s-skip-school-and-drink-Bud-Lights gathering before reaching the 9000’+ elevations that were sure to cool us off. We didn’t go into the actual town but hung out around Nederland, which many had told us was a very RV/van-friendly area. Unfortunately, it might be a little too well-known for its friendliness because the whole Roosevelt National Forest seemed to be full with boondockers and people who have clearly made a permanent home for themselves amongst these mountain tops. In such a large area, we’ve never had so much trouble finding places to camp that weren’t completely full on a random weekday afternoon. On the Wednesday and Thursday, we had to scope out 3 different spots before eventually finding a mediocre place to set up shop for the night. We’ve heard awesome things about Colorado and all the places to camp but it’s just a little too saturated for our taste and dare I say, a little overrated. Maybe we’re just late to the party.

All in all, we had a great time exploring around Colorado and would still go back in a heartbeat to cross more things off of our list (for example, the roads weren’t open to cars in Rocky Mountain National Park yet) but camping was honestly a bit of a nightmare. With seemingly so many options, everyone and their brother is already in those options and the ones beside them. I can only imagine it gets even crazier in the summer but early May was definitely a bit of a shitshow. Before we head to the Midwest, we have only one piece of advice for people that think Colorado is awesome: go to Canada. Sorry guys, but your mountains ain’t got nothin’ on ours.

Well, it’s been a while! After a longer winter than we anticipated spent in Campbell River on Vancouver Island (because it’s so awesome), we spent a few quick days in Vancouver squeezing in hangout sessions with as many friends as we could in the shortest amount of time. We decided to take a different route back to Calgary this time and followed the Trans Canada the whole way to avoid the unpredictable weather of the Coquihalla and the endless mountain passes of the Crowsnest. If you’re looking to make this drive and want to be as easy on the gas as possible, the Fraser Canyon route is definitely a good choice with minimal hills – even though it takes about 1.5 hrs longer than the Coq.

We zoomed through the desert lands of Kamloops and spent a snowy night in Revelstoke before making the relentlessly stunning drive through Glacier and Banff and shutting ‘er down in Calgary at Justin’s brother’s house. We spent a few weeks catching up on all the things we put off doing over the winter (lol) and if you’ve been following along on our Instagram, you’d know that we even got a puppy! She is the absolute best and was just as excited as we were to hit the road again and start uncovering some new ground.

We crossed the border armed with our roster of veterinary paperwork and expected a full shakedown but cruised through without any hassle, which always makes for a good start to a trip. We drove through the border town of Shelby, MT which was a huge throwback to our first night on the road ever back in 2017. Happily opting not to stay there again, we made our way into the Lewis and Clark National Forest near Monarch where we spent the night amid the trees and stubborn springtime snow. Pierogi (our dog) had a blast sniffing around the new territory and did a pretty good job with her first long drive. We’re sure she’ll be well-adjusted in no time.

After a couple necessary cheap grocery and booze stops, we hit up our first new state in a while and started to feel truly Home on the Range in Wyoming. Wyoming is one of those places that you often forget exists until you remember that two of the country’s greatest marvels call this place home: Yellowstone National Park and the Grand Tetons. Sadly, the weather this early in May felt more like March and just wasn’t ideal for doing a bunch of mountain exploring. This is the second time we’ve missed the road openings/closures to Yellowstone by a couple of weeks so one day we’ll plan accordingly and actually get a chance to visit…

Anyway, this time around we stuck to the eastern side of the state which was a total hidden gem. You can tell that all the farmers and ranchers take pride in their properties because everywhere we went was beautifully and meticulously maintained. We camped a night at Tongue River Canyon, which was a super cool and unexpected backdrop to a breezy May evening. There was so much rugged red rock that seemed to come out of nowhere after miles and miles of grassy farm fields.

From Tongue River we headed east to check out the crazy rock formation that is Devil’s Tower National Monument and were not disappointed. This was one of those places that we had never heard of but saw a photo of while scrolling through Reddit just a few days before and instantly said “let’s go” when we found out it was in Wyoming. How the tall rock actually came to be is still up in the air but seeing it appear out of nowhere as we drove up was conclusively super cool. It’s literally just a tall rock formation that looks like it shot straight up out of the ground while everything else in the area is mostly flat and gives no nods to its existence. It was raining when we went and the dark, ominous clouds added to the eeriness of the whole place making it feel like the rock really was a product of the Devil’s handiwork (but more realistically, volcanoes). We walked around the base of it and observed the perfectly carved out lines that give it its distinct ridges. Climbing was closed for the time being because of nesting falcons but I can only imagine how crazy that would be.

After leaving the tower and spending a night in the Black Hills National Forest, we saw a sign saying that Mount Rushmore was only an hour and a half away. Now, Mount Rushmore is definitely not the usual type of landmark that we get excited by but for its shear ridiculousness and hilarity, we knew we had to go. We woke up the next day and rolled into South Dakota while a thick fog filled the sky. We shrugged it off and figured it would burn off by the afternoon and kept on truckin’. As luck would have it, we got there and couldn’t see a damn thing. At the ticket booth, we asked if anything was visible and the guy chuckled while pointing behind him and saying, “well, it’s right there so you tell me.” So it was a bit of a fail but made for a pretty hilariously disappointing story. Before you ask – yes, Crazy Horse was equally invisible.

Rain seemed to follow us for the rest of the week as we crossed back into Wyoming for cheaper and less confusing gas. Gas? Confusing? In South Dakota, yes. Plus gas is cheaper than regular! It seems that “plus” isn’t truly the middle tier gas here; from what I gather, the government subsidizes ethanol production (from corn) in these “corn belt” states so while the regular gas has a higher octane, it has a lower ethanol content and the plus gas has a higher ethanol content and a lower octane. Needless to say, this made our trip to the pump oddly confusing and resulted in a lot of baffled googling. Anyway, we spent another gloomy night at Grayrocks Reservoir near Wheatland and tried to enjoy the views of the water while the sky dumped down on us with buckets of cold rain and aggressive wind.

The next day meant we had another new state on the agenda and were only a day away from picking up our friends from the airport in Denver for a week-long adventure. We boogied through Cheyenne and crossed the state line into Colorado while questioning if the American Rocky Mountains even exist because it was so foggy (not trying to start a conspiracy theory here). We were super stoked to check out a state we’ve been wanting to visit for a while and couldn’t wait to share it with our new little adventure bud too.

After spending an amazing few months exploring the mecca of outdoor living in Campbell River, British Columbia, we teamed up with Destination Campbell River to shine a light on some more remote and majorly underrated spots within a few hours drive from the city. If you’re looking for clothes shopping and staying at Best Westerns then this definitely isn’t the trip for you. But if you’re game to soak in a ton of unspoiled nature and get a little muddy along the way then read on!

To make sure that you hit all the good spots, we’ve put together an easy to follow list of the highlights of this Vancouver Island Road Trip. Starting from Campbell River through Strathcona Provincial Park to Gold River, and from Gold River to Tahsis. We did the trip over the course of 3 days but there are lots of opportunities for longer hikes and more camping to make this a week-long trip.

START: CAMPBELL RIVER

Gear up with supplies for cooking and top up all of your vehicle’s fluids because services are very limited once you leave town. You also most likely won’t have cell service once you get 15-20 minutes in on the Gold River Highway (Hwy 28) so make sure you’ve got all your emails answered and accommodation arrangements (if need be) made before setting out. A Backroads Mapbook or offline map on your phone will also come in handy if you decide to veer off the main highway at all (which, needless to say, you always should).

ELK FALLS PROVINCIAL PARK

Just a few minutes after leaving town, you’ll enter into Elk Falls Provincial Park which has some great walking trails, camping, and a super cool suspension bridge. The falls themselves are a short walk from the park’s entrance and can be especially epic when the nearby hydroelectric dam is open, pushing massive amounts of water down the river. Entry to the park is free and the paid campground is open year-round.

STRATHCONA PARK LODGE

With the drop in cell service and the lack of folks around, you wouldn’t expect to find a beautifully-crafted eco-lodge hidden along a winding highway but yet, Strathcona Park Lodge exists. This lodge is rich in logging history and serves as a meeting point for outdoor adventure enthusiasts and those looking to learn more about the area. The lodge hosts everything from camps for kids to romantic getaways for couples looking to do something a little different. The lodge works hard to promote sustainable and eco-friendly living where no TV, Internet, or grid-connected electricity is to be found. Almost all of the food served in the dining hall, The Whale Room, is sourced from local farmers and fishers who are passionate about promoting a healthy and conscious lifestyle for those working and visiting.

The cabins are cozy yet modern and boast some amazing views of the mountains that hug Upper Campbell Lake. Whether you’re keen to take a kayak out for a paddle or a bike out for a ride, Strathcona Park Lodge is a great spot to really immerse yourself in Vancouver Island’s picturesque beauty.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: ENTRANCE

It’s obligatory to snap a photo with the huge elk marking the entrance to Strathcona Provincial Park. There are outhouses and trash cans here that make it a good pit stop before heading deeper into the park. We even took a walk down to the water for a taste of some of the amazing views to come. Similar to Elk Falls, it’s completely free to enter and explore Strathcona, but there are fees if you choose to camp at one of the park’s campgrounds or require a permit for backcountry exploring.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: BUTTLE LAKE

At this point in your Vancouver Island Road Trip, you’ll want to veer off of Hwy 28 and head down Westmin Mines Road to drive along the shores of Buttle Lake. Although it may seem like Upper Campbell Lake is the main drag, it is actually a man-made lake created after the construction of the Strathcona Dam in the 1950s. Buttle Lake, on the other hand, has always existed naturally but had way lower water levels before the construction of the dam and consequently, was much smaller. When water levels are low, you can see several tree stumps on the muddy shore which are some of the few remaining traces of the forest that used to stand tall pre-hydroelectric dam. Now, Buttle Lake is a popular spot for boating, swimming, and fishing and has two vehicle-accessible campgrounds. We didn’t camp here but we’ve heard that Ralph River on the south shore of the lake is definitely worth checking out.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: LUPIN FALLS

A short hike takes you up to a real-life enchanted forest where you’ll be surrounded by masses of old growth cedar trees blanketed in lavish green moss. Once you reach the waterfall, take a minute to soak in all the beauty surrounding you and don’t hold back from climbing up to the higher viewing area. If you’ve got an imagination, you could almost trick yourself into thinking that the tall, skinny waterfall is actually warm water and Lupin Falls would feel like a tropical oasis.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: KARST CREEK

Personally, when I think of sinkholes I think of seemingly bottomless cenotes in Mexico and had no idea that dissolved limestone – called karst – could create underground tunnels and a whole network of creeks below the earth’s surface – and all of this in Canada to boot! Karst Creek is a 2km trail that opens up to a “disappearing” creek, a waterfall and of course, a sinkhole. There is one section of the trail that involves crossing a riverbed that is only advisable to do only when the water levels are low. We did the trail in March and this section was almost completely dry.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: LOWER MYRA FALLS

If Strathcona Provincial Park has ever been on your radar, it’s probably because of Lower Myra Falls. A gorgeous limestone-carved waterfall flows freely into pools of vibrant, turquoise waters that look like a paradise out of the Caribbean. It’s a steep 15 minute walk down to the falls where you can get up close and personal with the colourful water and even cool off in it if you’re feeling brave. Needless to say, be very cautious because the rocks can be super slippery and the water flows pretty rapidly. If you’re planning a longer trip, the 6km hike to Upper Myra Falls sounds like a pretty great way to spend an afternoon.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: LADY FALLS

Once you’ve hit Myra Falls, you’ll need to head back on Westmin Mines Road in order to link back up with Hwy 28 and continue west. Reaching the end of Strathcona Provincial Park, the last stop to make is at Lady Falls. A popular spot due to its brisk 900m jaunt from the highway, Lady Falls are a lot more aggressive than the name may lead you to believe. Similar to Elk Falls, the roaring cascade will surround you in a cool mist that would make for the perfect way to refresh yourself on a hot day.

Because we were on a shorter trip, we stuck to mostly shorter trails and tried to jam a lot into one day. The next time we go, we definitely want to work in having the time to do the Elk River Trail and Bedwell Lake Trail because they look incredible. It’s also important to note that this is only uncovering the Buttle Lake portion of the park – there is also the Forbidden Plateau zone that’s reached from Mt. Washington and would make for its own multi-day trip.

MUCHALAT LAKE

After a long day of trails and waterfalls, we continued on the final stretch of the Gold River Highway (Hwy 28) to you guessed it, Gold River. Instead of turning into town, we headed 20 minutes north to Muchalat Lake where we’d camp for the night. This BC Recreation Area is an absolute gem; it’s $15/night to camp from May-September but free in the off-season. There are several campsites and a big boat launch and wharf that would make any afternoon on the water a blast. The views of the mountains are absolutely spectacular and make for a pretty humbling experience as you stand surrounded by old growth forest. We were lucky to only have one or two other campers there but I’d imagine this spot would be pretty popular in the summer months.

VILLAGE OF GOLD RIVER

The Village of Gold River is a small community of only 1,200 people that’s nestled amongst mountains, forest, and a plethora of lakes and rivers. Aside from a couple of gas stations and Fields, a general store, there isn’t much to the village since more and more people have been migrating to Campbell River and elsewhere after the closure of the pulp mill in the late 1990s left the town without many employment opportunities. Those that did stay have established a beautiful community surrounded by nature that is an extraordinary launching point for many hikes and outdoor adventure opportunities. Do yourself a favour and stop in at Clayworks Café for a coffee and sandwich while getting a chance to admire the handcrafted pottery made by the local artisan couple that runs the café. Again, our short visit meant that we didn’t have as much time as we’d like to explore the whole area but the next time we’re back, the first thing we’re going to do is the Antler Lake Trail. It only takes about an hour roundtrip and is a local favourite; as Neil, one of the owners of Clayworks said, “it would be a shame to come to Gold River and not do the trail.”

AIR NOOTKA

Although it’s pretty much in the direct centre of Vancouver Island, a 15 minute drive to the end of Hwy 28 opens up to an inlet with stunning mountain views and salty ocean air. At the edge of this inlet, you’ll find the dock to board the MV Uchuck III for an ocean cruise on a historic ship and the dock to board one of Air Nootka’s floatplanes. We were lucky enough to join Scott, Air Nootka’s pilot extraordinaire, on a scenic mail route and discover some remote communities on the shores of Vancouver Island’s west coast that are unreachable by road. The mail flight is a two hour journey around the area called Nootka Sound, which looks like a rugged landscape out of a movie set in the Polynesian Islands or somewhere else that is definitely not the Canada that we’ve seen anywhere else.

The waters are crystal clear and painted with a gradient of light turquoise to deep, jewel-toned blue and wash up onto white, sandy beaches lined with coniferous trees. Scott gave us a rundown on the rich First Nations history of the area and let us in on all the best surfing and hiking spots. We made two stops in Kyuquot and Zeballos to deliver mail and medical supplies after flying over a herring spawn and getting a bird’s eye view of grey whales heading in for a snack. A flight with Air Nootka is a popular voyage for hiking enthusiasts looking to embark on the Nootka Trail, a 37 km hike around Nootka Island that’s guaranteed to be rich in wildlife, scenery, and more than a few challenging obstacles. The beauty of this trail truly lies in its remoteness and solitude with how few people you will encounter along the way. Flights with Air Nootka have a variety of destination and pricing options and are best to be booked in advance.

CALA FALLS

After departing the Village of Gold River, you’ll start your 64 km journey on the Tree to Sea Drive to Tahsis. There are several viewpoints and landmarks along the way so we’ve included some of our favourites. The first stop is Cala Falls, a glorious waterfall fed from Big Baldy Mountain that’s easy to admire right from the road. The falls are only about 10 km away from Gold River and set a precursor for the outstanding amount of waterfalls you’ll continue to see along the way.

UPANA CAVES

Yes, you read that right – caves! The Upana Caves are a series of limestone and marble caves carved out by the Upana River. There are five caves to explore ranging from still-being-able-to-see-the-light-of-day to some pretty dark, tight squeezes. We visited at the beginning of spring so there was still a lot of snow and ice on the ground because the elevation is quite high but we still managed to do a little spelunking – don’t worry, we didn’t know what that word meant either until we tried our hand at exploring the caves and learned that “spelunking” is the correct term for this. It goes without saying that you must be extremely careful and mindful of your footing with the slippery rocks and jagged overhangs. We particularly liked the Resurgence Cave because it was the least claustrophobic and had some really impressive rock formations. The caves are completely free to explore and are a must-see if exploring the Gold River area.

COUGAR CREEK

British Columbia and the mid-Island region in particular are full of amazing camping opportunities in places that almost don’t even seem real. After a 40 minute detour off the main road, we came upon our new favourite campsite – ever. Cougar Creek is a provincial recreation area perched on one of the most serene and picturesque inlets that the Island has to offer. Similar to Muchalat Lake, there is a fee to camp here during the summer months but it is free in the off-season. In late March we had the entire place to ourselves and couldn’t have asked for a more spectacular spot to spend a night. The campground is a popular destination for anglers, which was made clear by the huge dock lined with fish cleaning tables and the endless waters that surrounded it. Truthfully, we had to remind ourselves that we weren’t in New Zealand as we watched the clouds clear to uncover everything from lush green mountains to rocky, snow-capped peaks. A visit to Cougar Creek is probably the most worthy detour you’ll ever make.

MOUTCHA + HEAD BAY

As you continue along the Tree to Sea Drive, the winding dirt roads and steep hills will open up to glimpses of breathtaking unspoiled nature and if you’re lucky, some pretty spectacular wildlife viewing. Just before Moutcha Bay, we got to watch a family of elk cross a riverbed while eagles flew majestically over our heads. Once you reach Moutcha and Head Bay, you’ll admire a perfectly still body of water with vibrant reflections of the peaceful trees and mountains that line the shore.

THREE SISTERS WATERFALL

This waterfall is epic – three parallel streams of crisp mountain water flow down the side of a rocky façade that looks like something out of National Geographic. The pullout for the lookout point isn’t very big but these tall waterfalls will be in view for a good portion of this section of the drive.

PRESIDENT’S TREE

This one is a bit of a sad stop. The President’s Tree or “The Big Tree” was preserved during the logging of the area done to make the road to Tahsis, which used to only be reachable by boat or plane. Dedicated to Jack Christiensen, President of the Tahsis Company, this 300+ year old Douglas Fir served as a welcome home marker to those en route to Tahsis. Sadly, the mammoth of a tree fell down last year in a storm and now remains fallen on the side of the road.

LEINER RIVER

Leiner River is a recreation area 5 minutes outside of the Village of Tahsis that is a popular destination for swimming, hiking, and camping. The campground is free to access all year round and makes for a great spot to do some tricks on the rope swing that hangs over the river. The area is very rainforest-y and links up with the Leiner River Trail. Be extra cautious of wildlife because cougars seem to enjoy this place just as much as humans.

VILLAGE OF TAHSIS

If you thought Gold River was a small community, wait until you get to Tahsis. A small fishing-oriented village of 300 people hugs the shore of the Tahsis Inlet. Yet another striking mountain view welcomes you as you roam the cherry blossom-lined streets (in the spring at least!). There is only one store in the entire village, conveniently called Tahsis Supermarket, which serves as a grocery/liquor/general store complete with a restaurant up front. We had some dynamite fish and chips and a BLT at the restaurant while chatting with some locals about the area. Seeing as we’re travelling in a van, they were quick to inform us of the recreation centre that is free to use and has a swimming pool, sauna, and even a bowling alley! For a small town, at least they’ve got their priorities covered. Being the shoulder season, we were the only tourists around but the village seems to liven up in the summer months when anglers and outdoor explorers from the US and Canada come to visit. The Westview Marina opens up in April-May with mooring, an inn, and a waterfront restaurant serving up local food and beer. Just like Gold River, the population has decreased drastically since the closure of the mill in the late 90s but the village is rebranding itself as an outdoor adventure hotspot in an absolutely gorgeous location.

Well, there you have it; an amazing journey around some of Vancouver Island’s most beautiful yet far too often overlooked locations that make for an awesome outdoorsy trip. Most people visiting – or even living on – Vancouver Island generally spend most of their time on the southern half and maybe make the pilgrimage to Tofino. The south Island is lovely but if you’re headed this way, a road trip up north of the Alberni Highway 4 is where all the true gems are. Take our word for it and ditch your list of popular spots and make the expedition to the heart of Vancouver Island!

Today marks 1 year that we’ve been travelling full time! Technically, Clemie’s birthday has already passed but it was on December 7 2017 that we left Alberta and have been on the road ever since. We’ve driven through 3 countries and have put on 65 000 km (40, 400 miles)!

Check out this awesome little video that Justin put together to highlight some of our favourite memories from the past year. We’ve met so many amazing people, been to so many new places and tried so many cool things. Here’s to everyone who has shared in our journey with us and to another adventurous year!

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?WE’RE 1!!? Although we had been doing small trips in the van before, today marks one year since we’ve been travelling full time! We left Alberta on Dec 7/17 and have been to so many cool places since. Check out this little video of our year full of rad memories ?? 1 year/3 countries/65 000 km ?? Can’t wait to see where next year will take us! . . #vanlife #yearinreview #modernoutdoors #exploremore #natureisbeautiful #vanlifeexplorers #vanlifediaries #visualsofearth #visualsoflife #createexploretakeover #getoutstayout #artofvisuals #campingcollective #welivetoexplore #optoutside #campeveryday #lifeofadventure #stayandwander #folkgood #stayandwander #keepitwild #pnwonderland #greatnorthcollective #ourplanetdaily #forgeyourownpath #roamtheplanet #wildernessculture #homeiswhereyouparkit

A post shared by Justin + Olivia (@genericvanlife) on Dec 7, 2018 at 11:28am PST

Be sure to follow along on Instagram if you haven’t already!

Where did we leave off? Oh right, we were on a mission to drive through the prairies as quickly as possible. Leaving Thunder Bay that morning and making a few stops along the way, we were making great progress by reaching Brandon by nightfall…that is, until we started smelling burning rubber and saw smoke coming from under the hood. Fun!

Truthfully, we haven’t had a breakdown in quite some time so we weren’t all that surprised. Naturally it was below 0 temperatures and the wind was violent when we had to pull over along the Trans Canada and check out the situation. It seemed that one of our belts had snapped, which was shitty news since we had just replaced them not long ago. Thanks to my dad’s suggestion, we kept our old belts just in case and thought we’d be in the clear by swapping the broken one out with our old one. Nope.

After several attempts to get the tension right, we realized that the unit it was wrapping around was ceased and was just continuing to smoulder and smell gross. The question now wasn’t as much about how we were going to replace this part as it was about identifying what the part even was. With no help from CAA (we’re mad at you, CAA), a kind stranger pulled over on the side of the highway asking if we were alright and offered to tow us to a nearby gas station. That’s one great thing about being in the prairies – people are super nice and everyone has a truck.

Long story short, it was an air pump (or smog pump), which is a part added in these older vehicles to help reduce emissions but virtually does nothing by today’s standards. In knowing that leaving the belt off would do nothing but increase our horsepower, we threw the broken belt in the trash can and got back on the road.

We had a nice rest area scoped out in Broadview, Saskatchewan but once we arrived well after midnight, the gate was locked and we felt a second hit of dejection. Our bodies were also very confused after driving through two time zones in one day (Sask doesn’t observe Daylight Savings Time) so we pulled into a nearby truck stop and hunkered down for the night to prepare for another long day of driving to follow. After a surprisingly quiet sleep, we got back on the highway and jetted through Regina, Swift Current and Medicine Hat before finally making it to Calgary and getting a chance to slow down for a few days and hangout with friends and family. Making the two long days of driving worth it was getting to meet Justin’s mom’s two new kittens that could put a smile even on Ebenezer Scrooge’s face.

With some major stroke of luck, we had clear skies and warm, sunny days the whole time we were in Calgary, sitting comfortable in double digit temperatures for over a week. As anyone who lives in their vehicle knows, that makes life much more pleasant for sleeping and pretty much just being alive in general. Even with the warm days, we were so bogged down with a huge workload that we spent most of our time behind our computer screens. We did, however, get to spend plenty of time with Justin’s brother’s puppy who doesn’t look like much of a puppy anymore but is still just as wild. Is it showing that I have major pet fever?

With so much time spent working, we took an overnight trip to Banff National Park to give ourselves a mini vacation and recharge a bit. If you’ve ever seen a postcard of Canada, it was probably taken in Banff. It’s Canada’s first National Park and is absolutely gorgeous from every direction. No doubt the Rockies are pretty epic the whole way down, but there’s something special about Banff. We started by driving through the foothills to Kananaskis Country and making Lake Louise our first stop. We’ve both been to Banff before but never at this time of year; October is shoulder season and is known to be the quietest month of the year. This was great news for us because the volume of tourists can often get a little out of hand when you have to time every photo just right in order to not get someone else’s family in the background.

Unfortunately the weather was a little overcast and grey but Lake Louise still glimmered with its vibrant blue-green waters. The canoes and kayaks had been put away for the season and were replaced by a bit more than a dusting of snow on the mountains and surrounding grounds. Despite the cooler temperatures and not-so-sunny skies, there were still bare shouldered brides and busloads of foreigners all checking out the Albertan staple. Moraine Lake, another photoshop-looking mountain lake, is usually the next stop but access was sadly already closed for the season.

On a whim, we decided to go on the Banff Gondola since there’s a special rate for Alberta residents (who can turn down a deal?) and we figured it’d be one of the only times where we’d actually get our own cable car and not have to wait in line. As cheap as I am (I prefer economical), this was worth paying full price for. The ride up Sulphur Mountain gave us an awesome view of the mountains but the view from the top was kind of mind blowing. There’s a fairly big building where you get off the gondola with a gift shop and restaurant and all that jazz, and the start of a 2 km (1.24 mi) walking trail – which is pretty much ALL stairs – that takes you to the Sanson’s Peak. At the summit of the mountain, you have an incredible panoramic view of the entire park and the town of Banff nestled amongst the towering peaks.

With the quick change in elevation, things got majorly cold so we were happy to return to ground level and find some good food after working up quite an appetite. Another praise to shoulder season, we were able to find free parking downtown where we could stroll around Banff Ave and the other animal-named streets without having to shimmy through hoards of tourists. We had some pretty tasty BBQ and cocktails at Park Distillery and left downtown with full bellies and lighter wallets. We headed into Canmore for the night, which is the neighbouring town outside of the National Park boundaries where a lot of people who work in Banff live (which, I might add, is like 95% Australians). We parked in a designated RV parking zone in downtown Canmore that was clearly a very popular spot for travellers and vehicle dwellers alike. We had the best time in Banff and lucked out being able to end the night within walking distance of a bar for a nightcap (or two…).

On our way back to Calgary, we stopped at Elbow Falls in Kananaskis and marvelled at how low the water levels were. Normally a pretty majestic waterfall, there was still a solid stream going but it was surrounded by dried up riverbeds that you could walk right on to. Sadly, they say the area really hasn’t been the same after the 2013 flood but in any case, it still is pretty.

Keeping our eyes on the forecast, we spent our last couple days in Alberta starting our winter prep for the van. We bought a roll of Reflectix and made insulating panels for all the windows and sealed off any gaps. We tied up some more loose ends repair-wise and very reluctantly, traded in our cassette player (it was hardly working) for a newfangled stereo. Clementine is slowly making her way into the 21^st century but still boasts plenty of 80s charm. Snow was on the ground when we left Calgary so we knew it was time to move and hopefully get as much of our mountain driving done before the weather starts to turn in BC. We had our fair share of cold weather last year in Alberta but escaped it by going south; this year, we’re staying in Canada and hoping to do everything we can to comfortably winterize. Stay tuned for a blog about winterizing tips for vanlifers – you’ll never cherish wool socks so much.

After leaving the East Coast, we blasted through Québec making only one overnight stop in beautiful Yamachiche in order to spend Thanksgiving with family in Toronto. Lucky for us, the soundtrack of the Kavanaugh hearings made our drive go by pretty fast since it sounded like we were listening to a (very long) scene in a movie. By the time we got into eastern Ontario, we were noticing that the leaves were slowly starting to change colour and that as soon as the temperatures started to dip, autumn would be in full swing. In other news, coming as music to the ears of Canadian vanlifers everywhere, Planet Fitness has started to expand its presence in the country and is making a nice dent into Southern Ontario. We grabbed our routine shower (and a work out too, I guess) at the new PF in Kingston and headed to the Lennox & Addington Dark Sky Viewing Area for the night. As our luck would have it, the clouds began to get really dark and heavy on our way there and it ended up rainy and overcast for the rest of the night so we definitely got a good view of how dark the sky was, but sadly it was not lit up with stars.

With another return visit to Toronto, we spent a week hanging out with friends and family and sleeping in inconspicuous alleyways around the city, as everyone does when they visit home. We were lucky enough to have multiple family Thanksgivings and an ever-popular Friendsgiving filled with tons of food, booze and good times. Not to brag, but we also got a beautiful new countertop that Justin’s uncle made for us with some extra plywood we had from the new table – upgrade!

We had already experienced a taste of the cold to come while in Newfoundland and even in the evenings in Toronto but were not at all expecting the heat wave that was to come as we left. Picture this: it’s early October, Alberta has already had over a foot of snow, people are putting their winter tires on and Toronto reaches 27°C (81°F) for two days. What the?! As abnormal as it was, we tried to enjoy it while we could knowing that the north would be much colder. We hopped on the dreaded highway 400 and the temperatures started to dip as our km’s climbed. We boogied through toward Sudbury and stayed at a boat ramp near Killarney that was painted with reds, oranges and yellows. The craziest thing about fall is that it doesn’t last very long – the leaves change colour and if you don’t enjoy them right away then you’ll be stuck looking at them on the ground as soon as it gets cold. If you live in a place that doesn’t really experience autumn (say, the desert or in recent years, Calgary), then you should make it a point to travel somewhere that does to see the leaves at least once in your life. Northern Ontario is an awesome place to do it along with the eastern US.

We made our necessary stops in Sudbury for an oil change and to see the Big Nickel and headed to somewhere I (Olivia) have always wanted to go: Manitoulin Island. Generally people from Southern Ontario take the ferry, The Chi-Cheemaun, from Tobermory to visit the island, but if you’re coming from the north, then you can drive right on from Espanola. I’m sure the boat would be amazing but driving required a lot less planning. Speaking of planning, although we rarely plan much, we definitely did not plan for our Sudbury errands to take as long as they did so we ended up on the island much later than we would have liked. Sadly the change in seasons always goes hand in hand with a much earlier night sky. Our main destination was to check out Bridal Veil Falls. We got there around 5PM and it was pissing rain and starting to get dark. Somewhat reluctantly, we parked the van and made our way down the steps when it seemed that the rain had started to let up and there was all but the calming sound of a roaring waterfall below us. When we made it to the bottom, we realized that something special was going on; the river was chock full of salmon swimming upstream to spawn. There was no one else there, the rain had stopped and a mob of big ol’ salmon were so close to us that we could touch them. We were even able to walk behind the falls and watch the salmon attempt to jump up them. Magical!

Sadly we didn’t have much more daylight left to enjoy the rest of the island so we headed back up to the van when the rain began to teem again as soon as we got inside. Even though we only scratched the surface on all the beauty that Manitoulin has to offer, we felt a pretty warm welcome. We spent that night on a neighbouring stepping stone island for getting to Manitoulin before continuing our journey north. The drive through Sault Ste. Marie and Batchawana Bay was littered with full, colourful trees that decorated the shores of Lake Superior. I always have to remind myself that Superior is, in fact, a lake and not the ocean since its “coast” feels so much like the seaside and its waves can really rip. Driving around the American side in Minnesota was breath-taking but much more commercialized with tons of rental cabins and inns spread around the north shore while the Ontario side is much more rugged and undisturbed. Both absolutely gorgeous, but each with its own vibe.

Continuing on our way, we had to make a stop at Chippewa Falls to take in just how aggressive and raging they were with the river levels so high. We’re talking sweep-you-away-to-neverland rapids that showed no signs of calming down. It had been raining pretty much non-stop since we got north of Barrie and that was made clear with how many road washouts there were in the northern part of the province and by these insane waterfalls that looked like they’d take no prisoners. Justin has done this Northern Ontario drive many times before and had never seen them even remotely like this.

Doing a bit of waterfall hopping, we tried to spend the night at High Falls in Wawa but unfortunately the road had been washed out. Although it wasn’t that late, it was starting to get dark so we had to act fast on where we wanted to sleep and decided to keep heading north toward White River. Within half an hour of being back on the road, it started to snow. The first squall we hit only lasted a few minutes but the second one was much more relentless and was accompanied by a pitch-black sky. The snow was coming directly at us and looked like white laser beams in the glow of the headlights. We managed to get to the boat ramp we were headed for fine but the snow kept on going. It wasn’t sticking much since it was still about 2-3°C (36°F) but we woke up to the surprise of not being able to see out the windows. It was time to dig out the snow brush and hope our tears wouldn’t freeze while we cleaned off the van.

The rest of the drive around Lake Superior just got more and more beautiful but had fully replaced the colourful leaves with more of a winter wonderland look. The small mountains and cliffs looked nothing short of majestic with a layer of bright white snow and tons of icy pine trees. We made our way past Thunder Bay to Kakabeka Falls to spend some time relaxing and drinking homemade wine with Justin’s relatives while it continued to snow outside. On the morning that we left, we had the intention of getting to Winnipeg before driving through the completely snow-covered Kenora area and finding ourselves in a full-blown snowstorm while entering Manitoba. This wasn’t looking good but like the rain clearing in Manitoulin, the snow seemed to completely stop once we reached the Winnipeg city limits and the prairies showed themselves in all their true, non-snow-covered glory. We were in a race against the weather now and wanted to get to the West Coast before things got any worse. Unlike last time when we spent two weeks driving through Manitoba and Saskatchewan, we were ready to do what most cross country travellers do and bomb through the prairies. It feels like it’s us versus winter now and we’re hoping to come out on top!

And so the journey back west commences. After getting off the very long and stressful ferry ride from Newfoundland to North Sydney, NS, we figured we would drive about halfway to St. Andrews, NB or at least call it quits whenever we burn out. We managed to “nap” briefly on the boat but an upright chair isn’t really the ideal place to get a good night’s rest. On top of barely sleeping, we arrived in port much later than we were originally set to because of the weather but were still feeling ambitious. My ambition ran out in Moncton but Justin had enough to drive us all the way to St. Andrews, where we were lucky enough to get to stay at a friend’s cabin for a few days.

The town of St. Andrews is considered to be a “historic resort town”, where east coasters and others have been vacationing for years. The buildings are old and beautifully maintained while all having lovely, unobstructed views of Passamaquoddy Bay within the Bay of Fundy and its crazy tide. The Algonquin Hotel in itself could probably be deemed its own resort town with its huge stately stature and triple-digit price tags. Being back on the mainland brought clear skies and much more comfortable temps so we were able to sit back on the patio and drink beers in the glow of the warm sun.

After going to Hopewell Rocks and experiencing first hand just how drastic the Bay of Fundy’s tide change is, we weren’t surprised to hear about Minister’s Island. It’s an island that is only accessible during low tide when cars can drive across the ocean’s floor along a sandbar (or rock bar, more like) to reach it. In the late 1800s, the former president of the Canadian Pacific Railway bought the land and decided to make it his summer home island. Everyone’s got one of those, right? You can also walk down to the bathhouse, which was essentially a series of pools created during high tide where folks relaxed and got salty.

We would have loved to go through Maine but sadly our US visitor visas are pretty well maxed out. That’s not to say that the drive through Canada wouldn’t be beautiful, but the allure of cheap gas and even cheaper beer is always quite tempting. After some much-needed Oceanside relaxing and catching up with friends, we were back on the road and heading toward the Québec border. We got word of a bad storm hitting Eastern Québec that night so we took the opportunity to get some work done at a café in Fredericton and check out the world’s longest covered bridge in Hartland. Although the title piqued our interest, this bridge wasn’t exactly something on our bucket list. That being said, it was actually pretty cool. It’s a single lane bridge that spans 391 m/1282 feet and kinda makes you feel like you’re in a secret tunnel. Maybe not what the architects intended in 1898 but who’s to say.

Westbound and down is the name of the game for the next while as we make one more stop in Toronto before heading to the west coast for the winter. We’ve had an incredible summer and have no plans of slowing down until we reach Vancouver Island.

After departing PEI, we were on a new mission to collect a very special antique from a family member in southern Nova Scotia. It was a 150+ year old spinning wheel used by Justin’s grandmother and great-grandmother for years to make yarn. We made our way down to Hubbards to see it, but not before grabbing a bite of donair on the outer rings of Halifax. If you’re American, you probably don’t know what I’m talking about but Halifax donairs are pretty famous and boast a wrap-sandwich-thing like no other – especially in the realm of drunk food. The secret is in the sauce, which has condensed milk in it, giving it a sweet taste as opposed to the usual heavy garlic of a shawarma or gyro. If you’re in Halifax, it’s practically your duty to at least try one. That being said, they’re not my favourite (womp womp woooomp) but at least I did my due diligence as a tourist. Also, do yourself a favour and tie up your hair before eating one – sauce in the hair is inevitable, no matter how proper you are.

Saucy hair in tow, we made our way down to Hubbards, about half an hour outside of Halifax to meet up with Justin’s first cousin once removed (we spent way too long studying cousin charts to learn that that’s what your dad’s first cousin is to you to not use the term). We drove by some pretty gorgeous sandy beaches like Queensland Beach that made us question if we were in Nova Scotia or Florida. Seriously, these beaches were very different than the usual rugged and rocky coastal beaches. Another interesting thing is that although these are ocean beaches, most have a freshwater lake beside them. Pretty cool. Once we got to Hubbards, we disassembled the spinning wheels and realized just how big it was; the wheel itself was about the size of our bed. Luckily we didn’t have to transport it all that far.

The East Coast hospitality continued as we spent the evening drinking beers on a private beach while the sun was setting and enjoying the last couple weeks of summer. We woke up the next day and checked out Hubbards’ farmers market that was filled with an interesting mix of people of all ages. Although not a place we had ever even heard of, we totally understood why Justin’s first cousin once removed (sorry, had to) has spent 20 years there. A small enough town for everyone to know your name but still with unique events going on all the time.

After leaving the market, we drove through more beautiful seaside towns like Chester and Mahone Bay that made us lust over south shore Nova Scotia. Sid, Justin’s dad’s cousin, took us to Lunenburg, which is a town out of a postcard. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site and played a big role in Nova Scotia’s history. It’s now the home to the Bluenose II schooner that was unfortunately out at sea the day we were on the wharf. The town is full of colourful buildings and amazing boats from all over, really similar to the coastal towns of Scandinavia in Sweden and Denmark. We walked around all the hills, popping in and out of cute little shops and eventually having a bowl of chowder while overlooking the ocean. Does life get any better than this?!

After another open-ended goodbye, we set out to Peggy’s Cove to see one of Nova Scotia’s most iconic sites. Driving along more of the south shore was absolutely breathtaking and made for some pretty spectacular scenery. The views didn’t stop when we got up to the lighthouse where the rocks turn into smooth almost white boulders and the land opens up to beautiful, open coastline.

As the sun started to set, we did our best to avoid moose on the road by boogying through Truro and New Glasgow to a gravel pit not far from Antigonish. Here we were close to the causeway to cross onto Cape Breton Island the next morning and do the Cabot Trail. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to visit downtown Halifax but seeing how much we enjoyed the south shore, I’m sure we’ll be back again.

You often forget just how big Ontario is and how long it takes to even cut across the bottom to get to Québec. I remember many $15 Megabus trips to Montréal to take advantage of the 18-year-old drinking age and late night bars where the drive seemed to fly by but in this case, it felt like more of a crawl (am I ageing myself?). A big part of how draining it felt stemmed from the days getting noticeable shorter. It’s starting to get dark earlier and earlier and autumn will definitely be upon us soon. Let’s just hope this year we will actually get to experience an autumn and Mother Nature doesn’t just slam the winter button way too early again. Anyway, after a long day, we decided to skip Montréal and settle into the small riverside town of Beauharnois for the night.

Beauharnois is home to a pretty massive hydroelectric dam with an adjacent gravel lot fit for a nice overnight stay. It seemed to be a pretty popular spot for people to stay the night, as there were more than a dozen vehicles already parked along the river when we arrived. Some folks even had their fishing rods out and were trying their luck with some poissons in the river. After climbing out of some not-so-obvious potholes, we crashed pretty quickly and had some much-needed rest after a long day on the road. We also had the free entertainment of locals bringing their Jeeps and minivans alike to do some awful-sounding donuts in the parking lot. In the morning, most people had cleared out but a man in a van not so different from Clemie came over to chat with us and welcome us to the area. It’s always super nice to get a chance to talk with locals and not feel like you’re seen as vagrant bums, especially when you’re just doing a quick overnight.

We decided to pass on reliving our school year trips to Québec City and bypass the gorgeous historic city since we still had a fair amount of ground to cover in order to make our ferry to Newfoundland. Following the St. Lawrence, we drove through the countryside and got a taste for what the rest of our drive was going to be like. Small mountains were starting to pop up and water views were never far away. We had a few Québec vanners tell us that Kamouraska is where we want to be when it comes to travelling through the province so that’s where we headed. We stayed at a beach where the river felt like an ocean and there was nothing but peaceful, rolling hills in the distance. In the middle of all this painting-like scenery is a microbrewery all on its own called Tête d’Allumette where we popped in to grab a couple beers to enjoy on the beach as the tide rolled out.

Kamouraska gave us a definite East Coast teaser and made us all that more excited to travel through Atlantic Canada. After leaving the beach, we made a stop in Rivière-du-Loup to get some much-needed rations: cheap beer and canned maple syrup. Did you even go to Québec if you didn’t bring back the tastiest maple syrup there is?! French goods in tow, we headed into the Atlantic time zone where we’d be embarking on the last leg of our voyage across Canada.