I think it’s safe to say that when I wrote our Pandemic Van Life blog back in April, we still had a glimmer of hope that we would all be able to wash our hands of this in a few months and resume a somewhat normal, albeit modified, way of life. Now, almost four months later, it’s clear that the world will never be the same and it’s going to take a very long time for people to feel comfortable travelling freely again.

So much has transpired this year that has made us extremely grateful for our health, our safety, and all of the adventures we were able to go on in the past few years. As much as we would love to be cruising up to the Arctic this summer like we had originally planned, we realize that these smaller communities cannot handle any tourists because they barely have the resources to supply their own residents. Towns like Whistler and Squamish begged Vancouverites to stay away and not add any additional stress to their already scarcely stocked shelves – especially when toilet paper was the new gold for a while there (why did that happen anyway..?). Without turning this into a rant, my point here is that now is not the time to be selfish. Yeah, it sucks that the travel plans that you’ve been working on for the past six months got spoiled but if that’s all you’ve got to complain about then you’re doing pretty damn good.

That being said, we’ve been getting messages here and there wondering how we’re doing and if we’re still living in the van so we wanted to give a little update on where we’re at in the midst of all this craziness. In our last blog, we were renting an Airbnb on Vancouver Island with hopes that it would only be a temporary situation. After a month there, we realized that this isn’t going to be over anytime soon so we started looking at more long-term options. We knew that the only way we could get through this would be if we were close to nature so we found a great little spot in Nanaimo that’s close to the ocean and a ton of hiking trails. We were hesitant to sign our lives away on a year-long lease but we knew we had to prioritize the ability to work and use the bathroom, as these were basic things that we realized we took for granted once they were no longer available to us.

So there you have it, the end of full-time van life has come upon us. We have become involuntary weekend warriors after an absolutely amazing 2+ years. That’s not to say that we still won’t be travelling and going on road trips (still so many places we want to see!) but we will have a shower to come home to now, which is a weird but welcomed adjustment. We are so fortunate that we can afford to live in an apartment and still keep the van and we truly feel for those who live in their vehicle out of necessity and not leisure – this can’t be easy. So with that, I’ll leave you with some photos of some mini-adventures we’ve been able to go on while adjusting to this new normal. ✌️

After spending an amazing few months exploring the mecca of outdoor living in Campbell River, British Columbia, we teamed up with Destination Campbell River to shine a light on some more remote and majorly underrated spots within a few hours drive from the city. If you’re looking for clothes shopping and staying at Best Westerns then this definitely isn’t the trip for you. But if you’re game to soak in a ton of unspoiled nature and get a little muddy along the way then read on!

To make sure that you hit all the good spots, we’ve put together an easy to follow list of the highlights of this Vancouver Island Road Trip. Starting from Campbell River through Strathcona Provincial Park to Gold River, and from Gold River to Tahsis. We did the trip over the course of 3 days but there are lots of opportunities for longer hikes and more camping to make this a week-long trip.

START: CAMPBELL RIVER

Gear up with supplies for cooking and top up all of your vehicle’s fluids because services are very limited once you leave town. You also most likely won’t have cell service once you get 15-20 minutes in on the Gold River Highway (Hwy 28) so make sure you’ve got all your emails answered and accommodation arrangements (if need be) made before setting out. A Backroads Mapbook or offline map on your phone will also come in handy if you decide to veer off the main highway at all (which, needless to say, you always should).

ELK FALLS PROVINCIAL PARK

Just a few minutes after leaving town, you’ll enter into Elk Falls Provincial Park which has some great walking trails, camping, and a super cool suspension bridge. The falls themselves are a short walk from the park’s entrance and can be especially epic when the nearby hydroelectric dam is open, pushing massive amounts of water down the river. Entry to the park is free and the paid campground is open year-round.

STRATHCONA PARK LODGE

With the drop in cell service and the lack of folks around, you wouldn’t expect to find a beautifully-crafted eco-lodge hidden along a winding highway but yet, Strathcona Park Lodge exists. This lodge is rich in logging history and serves as a meeting point for outdoor adventure enthusiasts and those looking to learn more about the area. The lodge hosts everything from camps for kids to romantic getaways for couples looking to do something a little different. The lodge works hard to promote sustainable and eco-friendly living where no TV, Internet, or grid-connected electricity is to be found. Almost all of the food served in the dining hall, The Whale Room, is sourced from local farmers and fishers who are passionate about promoting a healthy and conscious lifestyle for those working and visiting.

The cabins are cozy yet modern and boast some amazing views of the mountains that hug Upper Campbell Lake. Whether you’re keen to take a kayak out for a paddle or a bike out for a ride, Strathcona Park Lodge is a great spot to really immerse yourself in Vancouver Island’s picturesque beauty.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: ENTRANCE

It’s obligatory to snap a photo with the huge elk marking the entrance to Strathcona Provincial Park. There are outhouses and trash cans here that make it a good pit stop before heading deeper into the park. We even took a walk down to the water for a taste of some of the amazing views to come. Similar to Elk Falls, it’s completely free to enter and explore Strathcona, but there are fees if you choose to camp at one of the park’s campgrounds or require a permit for backcountry exploring.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: BUTTLE LAKE

At this point in your Vancouver Island Road Trip, you’ll want to veer off of Hwy 28 and head down Westmin Mines Road to drive along the shores of Buttle Lake. Although it may seem like Upper Campbell Lake is the main drag, it is actually a man-made lake created after the construction of the Strathcona Dam in the 1950s. Buttle Lake, on the other hand, has always existed naturally but had way lower water levels before the construction of the dam and consequently, was much smaller. When water levels are low, you can see several tree stumps on the muddy shore which are some of the few remaining traces of the forest that used to stand tall pre-hydroelectric dam. Now, Buttle Lake is a popular spot for boating, swimming, and fishing and has two vehicle-accessible campgrounds. We didn’t camp here but we’ve heard that Ralph River on the south shore of the lake is definitely worth checking out.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: LUPIN FALLS

A short hike takes you up to a real-life enchanted forest where you’ll be surrounded by masses of old growth cedar trees blanketed in lavish green moss. Once you reach the waterfall, take a minute to soak in all the beauty surrounding you and don’t hold back from climbing up to the higher viewing area. If you’ve got an imagination, you could almost trick yourself into thinking that the tall, skinny waterfall is actually warm water and Lupin Falls would feel like a tropical oasis.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: KARST CREEK

Personally, when I think of sinkholes I think of seemingly bottomless cenotes in Mexico and had no idea that dissolved limestone – called karst – could create underground tunnels and a whole network of creeks below the earth’s surface – and all of this in Canada to boot! Karst Creek is a 2km trail that opens up to a “disappearing” creek, a waterfall and of course, a sinkhole. There is one section of the trail that involves crossing a riverbed that is only advisable to do only when the water levels are low. We did the trail in March and this section was almost completely dry.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: LOWER MYRA FALLS

If Strathcona Provincial Park has ever been on your radar, it’s probably because of Lower Myra Falls. A gorgeous limestone-carved waterfall flows freely into pools of vibrant, turquoise waters that look like a paradise out of the Caribbean. It’s a steep 15 minute walk down to the falls where you can get up close and personal with the colourful water and even cool off in it if you’re feeling brave. Needless to say, be very cautious because the rocks can be super slippery and the water flows pretty rapidly. If you’re planning a longer trip, the 6km hike to Upper Myra Falls sounds like a pretty great way to spend an afternoon.

STRATHCONA PROVINCIAL PARK: LADY FALLS

Once you’ve hit Myra Falls, you’ll need to head back on Westmin Mines Road in order to link back up with Hwy 28 and continue west. Reaching the end of Strathcona Provincial Park, the last stop to make is at Lady Falls. A popular spot due to its brisk 900m jaunt from the highway, Lady Falls are a lot more aggressive than the name may lead you to believe. Similar to Elk Falls, the roaring cascade will surround you in a cool mist that would make for the perfect way to refresh yourself on a hot day.

Because we were on a shorter trip, we stuck to mostly shorter trails and tried to jam a lot into one day. The next time we go, we definitely want to work in having the time to do the Elk River Trail and Bedwell Lake Trail because they look incredible. It’s also important to note that this is only uncovering the Buttle Lake portion of the park – there is also the Forbidden Plateau zone that’s reached from Mt. Washington and would make for its own multi-day trip.

MUCHALAT LAKE

After a long day of trails and waterfalls, we continued on the final stretch of the Gold River Highway (Hwy 28) to you guessed it, Gold River. Instead of turning into town, we headed 20 minutes north to Muchalat Lake where we’d camp for the night. This BC Recreation Area is an absolute gem; it’s $15/night to camp from May-September but free in the off-season. There are several campsites and a big boat launch and wharf that would make any afternoon on the water a blast. The views of the mountains are absolutely spectacular and make for a pretty humbling experience as you stand surrounded by old growth forest. We were lucky to only have one or two other campers there but I’d imagine this spot would be pretty popular in the summer months.

VILLAGE OF GOLD RIVER

The Village of Gold River is a small community of only 1,200 people that’s nestled amongst mountains, forest, and a plethora of lakes and rivers. Aside from a couple of gas stations and Fields, a general store, there isn’t much to the village since more and more people have been migrating to Campbell River and elsewhere after the closure of the pulp mill in the late 1990s left the town without many employment opportunities. Those that did stay have established a beautiful community surrounded by nature that is an extraordinary launching point for many hikes and outdoor adventure opportunities. Do yourself a favour and stop in at Clayworks Café for a coffee and sandwich while getting a chance to admire the handcrafted pottery made by the local artisan couple that runs the café. Again, our short visit meant that we didn’t have as much time as we’d like to explore the whole area but the next time we’re back, the first thing we’re going to do is the Antler Lake Trail. It only takes about an hour roundtrip and is a local favourite; as Neil, one of the owners of Clayworks said, “it would be a shame to come to Gold River and not do the trail.”

AIR NOOTKA

Although it’s pretty much in the direct centre of Vancouver Island, a 15 minute drive to the end of Hwy 28 opens up to an inlet with stunning mountain views and salty ocean air. At the edge of this inlet, you’ll find the dock to board the MV Uchuck III for an ocean cruise on a historic ship and the dock to board one of Air Nootka’s floatplanes. We were lucky enough to join Scott, Air Nootka’s pilot extraordinaire, on a scenic mail route and discover some remote communities on the shores of Vancouver Island’s west coast that are unreachable by road. The mail flight is a two hour journey around the area called Nootka Sound, which looks like a rugged landscape out of a movie set in the Polynesian Islands or somewhere else that is definitely not the Canada that we’ve seen anywhere else.

The waters are crystal clear and painted with a gradient of light turquoise to deep, jewel-toned blue and wash up onto white, sandy beaches lined with coniferous trees. Scott gave us a rundown on the rich First Nations history of the area and let us in on all the best surfing and hiking spots. We made two stops in Kyuquot and Zeballos to deliver mail and medical supplies after flying over a herring spawn and getting a bird’s eye view of grey whales heading in for a snack. A flight with Air Nootka is a popular voyage for hiking enthusiasts looking to embark on the Nootka Trail, a 37 km hike around Nootka Island that’s guaranteed to be rich in wildlife, scenery, and more than a few challenging obstacles. The beauty of this trail truly lies in its remoteness and solitude with how few people you will encounter along the way. Flights with Air Nootka have a variety of destination and pricing options and are best to be booked in advance.

CALA FALLS

After departing the Village of Gold River, you’ll start your 64 km journey on the Tree to Sea Drive to Tahsis. There are several viewpoints and landmarks along the way so we’ve included some of our favourites. The first stop is Cala Falls, a glorious waterfall fed from Big Baldy Mountain that’s easy to admire right from the road. The falls are only about 10 km away from Gold River and set a precursor for the outstanding amount of waterfalls you’ll continue to see along the way.

UPANA CAVES

Yes, you read that right – caves! The Upana Caves are a series of limestone and marble caves carved out by the Upana River. There are five caves to explore ranging from still-being-able-to-see-the-light-of-day to some pretty dark, tight squeezes. We visited at the beginning of spring so there was still a lot of snow and ice on the ground because the elevation is quite high but we still managed to do a little spelunking – don’t worry, we didn’t know what that word meant either until we tried our hand at exploring the caves and learned that “spelunking” is the correct term for this. It goes without saying that you must be extremely careful and mindful of your footing with the slippery rocks and jagged overhangs. We particularly liked the Resurgence Cave because it was the least claustrophobic and had some really impressive rock formations. The caves are completely free to explore and are a must-see if exploring the Gold River area.

COUGAR CREEK

British Columbia and the mid-Island region in particular are full of amazing camping opportunities in places that almost don’t even seem real. After a 40 minute detour off the main road, we came upon our new favourite campsite – ever. Cougar Creek is a provincial recreation area perched on one of the most serene and picturesque inlets that the Island has to offer. Similar to Muchalat Lake, there is a fee to camp here during the summer months but it is free in the off-season. In late March we had the entire place to ourselves and couldn’t have asked for a more spectacular spot to spend a night. The campground is a popular destination for anglers, which was made clear by the huge dock lined with fish cleaning tables and the endless waters that surrounded it. Truthfully, we had to remind ourselves that we weren’t in New Zealand as we watched the clouds clear to uncover everything from lush green mountains to rocky, snow-capped peaks. A visit to Cougar Creek is probably the most worthy detour you’ll ever make.

MOUTCHA + HEAD BAY

As you continue along the Tree to Sea Drive, the winding dirt roads and steep hills will open up to glimpses of breathtaking unspoiled nature and if you’re lucky, some pretty spectacular wildlife viewing. Just before Moutcha Bay, we got to watch a family of elk cross a riverbed while eagles flew majestically over our heads. Once you reach Moutcha and Head Bay, you’ll admire a perfectly still body of water with vibrant reflections of the peaceful trees and mountains that line the shore.

THREE SISTERS WATERFALL

This waterfall is epic – three parallel streams of crisp mountain water flow down the side of a rocky façade that looks like something out of National Geographic. The pullout for the lookout point isn’t very big but these tall waterfalls will be in view for a good portion of this section of the drive.

PRESIDENT’S TREE

This one is a bit of a sad stop. The President’s Tree or “The Big Tree” was preserved during the logging of the area done to make the road to Tahsis, which used to only be reachable by boat or plane. Dedicated to Jack Christiensen, President of the Tahsis Company, this 300+ year old Douglas Fir served as a welcome home marker to those en route to Tahsis. Sadly, the mammoth of a tree fell down last year in a storm and now remains fallen on the side of the road.

LEINER RIVER

Leiner River is a recreation area 5 minutes outside of the Village of Tahsis that is a popular destination for swimming, hiking, and camping. The campground is free to access all year round and makes for a great spot to do some tricks on the rope swing that hangs over the river. The area is very rainforest-y and links up with the Leiner River Trail. Be extra cautious of wildlife because cougars seem to enjoy this place just as much as humans.

VILLAGE OF TAHSIS

If you thought Gold River was a small community, wait until you get to Tahsis. A small fishing-oriented village of 300 people hugs the shore of the Tahsis Inlet. Yet another striking mountain view welcomes you as you roam the cherry blossom-lined streets (in the spring at least!). There is only one store in the entire village, conveniently called Tahsis Supermarket, which serves as a grocery/liquor/general store complete with a restaurant up front. We had some dynamite fish and chips and a BLT at the restaurant while chatting with some locals about the area. Seeing as we’re travelling in a van, they were quick to inform us of the recreation centre that is free to use and has a swimming pool, sauna, and even a bowling alley! For a small town, at least they’ve got their priorities covered. Being the shoulder season, we were the only tourists around but the village seems to liven up in the summer months when anglers and outdoor explorers from the US and Canada come to visit. The Westview Marina opens up in April-May with mooring, an inn, and a waterfront restaurant serving up local food and beer. Just like Gold River, the population has decreased drastically since the closure of the mill in the late 90s but the village is rebranding itself as an outdoor adventure hotspot in an absolutely gorgeous location.

Well, there you have it; an amazing journey around some of Vancouver Island’s most beautiful yet far too often overlooked locations that make for an awesome outdoorsy trip. Most people visiting – or even living on – Vancouver Island generally spend most of their time on the southern half and maybe make the pilgrimage to Tofino. The south Island is lovely but if you’re headed this way, a road trip up north of the Alberni Highway 4 is where all the true gems are. Take our word for it and ditch your list of popular spots and make the expedition to the heart of Vancouver Island!

So we finally completed the last leg of our cross-country journey that has been put on pause for the winter. If you haven’t been following along, there are a few reasons why we decided to station ourselves on Vancouver Island: firstly, we wanted to be able to stay in the van for the entire winter. That may seem obvious but the Canadian winter can be extremely harsh and living in a metal box outside can be more problematic than what it’s worth in a lot of places. You’re also spending way more time inside, which can feel a bit confining at times.

And so, in order to stay in the van we needed to be somewhere mild. Naturally, people always say “go south,” which is what we did last year and it was great but we maxed out our visitor Visas to the US so that wasn’t really an option. Vancouver Island has one of the least wintery winters in all of Canada so it certainly ticked a bunch of our boxes. Lastly, it’s just easier for us to stay put for a little while in our own country where we can freely use our bank cards, cell phones and of course, health care.

We took the ferry over to Nanaimo in late November without any real plan beyond finding some places where we could hunker down for a few months to save money on gas and devote a lot of time to working on new and ongoing projects. In the summer, we scoped out a bunch of places around Port Renfrew and Port Alberni that made for some great free camping but were so far off the beaten path that it wouldn’t be realistic to commute back and forth to town to get work done. We always thought of the northern part of the Island (“up-island” as they call it) as a place that gets snow and cold weather in the cooler months until we decided to actually Google the weather patterns. Turns out Campbell River averages being only a degree or two colder than Victoria and is virtually the same as Nanaimo and other areas of the lower island. The real draw? It’s surrounded by an astounding amount of BC Recreations Areas – 90% of which are completely free and are within a 45 minute drive from town.

Campbell River itself is a medium-sized town (population 35,138 in 2016) that virtually has everything you need from several supermarkets to a Home Depot and even a Walmart (to me it’s a small town but having a Walmart kind of negates that). We’ve managed to figure out a great set-up for showering at the local rec centre where $5.75 gives you access to a sauna, steam room and hot tub (and two indoor pools during certain hours) on top of your regular shower. There’s also a Shell truck stop with coin showers that also has a water hookup, dump station and pumps auto propane for one-stop shopping. Along with a few coffee shops, we’ve been making use of the public library, which has become a fantastic daytime office.

With our day-to-day life sorted, we’ve explored a number of the surrounding recreation areas and make it a point to uncover new ground every weekend. We’ve found one spot in particular that we joke has become our “home” since it’s only a 25 minute drive from town and is otherwise devoid of other humans during the week. The network of forest roads is incredibly complex and unveils a whole other world within the Sayward Forest. There are so many peaceful lakes and hidden gems down every bumpy, pothole-ridden turn that you take. It’s clear that this part of the island hasn’t reached the same levels of tourism that the southern island has and is still relatively under-discovered – and, in turn, very underrated.

We’re now (optimistically) half way through winter and really have been spoiled by mild temperatures and miniscule amounts of snow. This was also our second Christmas in the van but the first without family or friends. We treated ourselves by renting out an amazing Airbnb cabin in Bowser, just north of Qualicum Beach, that spoiled us with some of the creature comforts we miss from being in a traditional house. Namely, a shower, internet and an oven – vanlife has made us increasingly easier and easier to please. We relished in all the extra space and cozied up by the wood stove that made our propane furnace seem like a sub-par hairdryer. It was a nice break but we were happy to spend New Years in the van, alone in the woods, with a bottle of champagne and some cheap fireworks (again, it doesn’t take much to amuse us).

Hopefully the next couple months will continue to be kind to us and this little life that we’ve created here will allow us to make and save enough money to start planning our next adventure. We’re really hoping to make the pilgrimage to the Arctic this summer and are majorly looking forward to hitting the road again. It’s funny how we’ve become so accustomed to exploring new places every day that our brains crave the same stimulation that you just can’t get from staying in one spot. That being said, we really are spoiled with all the amazing nature around us and the possibilities of uncovering it all, piece by piece.

Check out this list of all the amazing recreation areas we’ve camped at so far and we won’t blame you for joining us in lusting over Campbell River:

• Strathcona Dam – A BC Hydro Rec Area next to the hydroelectric dam
• Burnt Beach – An amazing hidden gem on a quiet bay of Campbell Lake
• Big Bay – A classic BC rainforest that makes you feel like you’re in the jungle
• Brewster Lake – A perfect place to visit in the winter since there are no fees
• Twin Lake – The place we call home during the week
• McCreight Lake – An awesome spot closer to Sayward
• Long Point – A bigger recreation area with the biggest beach
• Gosling Bay – A sun-soaked spot nestled in the rainforest
• Gosling Lake – As close to a private lake as you’re gonna get with a price tag of free
• Mohun Lake – A small, easy access spot just off of a main logging artery

So, flashback to the summer when we spent a week in Vancouver fully embracing the stealthy habits that come with city camping. We had an awesome time relishing in city life while still having our humble abode to come home to. Now, fast-forward to November where it gets dark before 5PM and it’s just cold enough to not want to sit outside. You seek refuge in bars, restaurants and coffee shops blending in with all the other city dwellers who want to get out of the house while the dollar signs add up and your wallet starts to get thinner and thinner. Alternatively, you can sit in the van parked on a residential street trying not to make noise or run the lights or furnace – delightful. By no means are we asking for sympathy since we’re well aware that it’s been our choice to live in our vehicle and fortunately, we could live in a traditional apartment if we wanted to. We balance out these less enjoyable times with crazy adventures and a very flexible lifestyle that most people don’t have. In any case, I’m still going to proceed with sharing the hardships of city camping in the winter while you slide the bow across the world’s smallest violin.

Vancouver is an amazing place with a really nice balance of city and nature that makes for a great launch pad to the mountains, the beach and plenty of forested areas. Over the years, many people have caught on to how nice it is and consequently, a lot of people want to live there. Rental and housing prices are sky-high and there are plenty of restrictions on overnight parking yet there is a whole community of people who live in RVs and campers around the city. Very similar to Portland, we always favour parking in the Kitsilano area because the quiet streets are littered with Westfalias and no one seems to care. In the summer this was awesome because we could spend the evening at the beach or the park and only head back to the van when it was dark and we’d probably be going to bed soon anyway. Although the temperatures were still undeniably mild, it’s still not the most comfortable to sit on a cold, wet log on the beach in the dark while it rains and hovers around 0 degrees (32°F). Naturally, we didn’t want to make a racket cooking and doing the dishes so we’d spend time at bars and restaurants and end up spending more eating out than we’d like. It almost felt like part of the money we were spending on that beer or that burger was just for a place to sit and a bathroom to use. Not to mention that there are a ton of great restaurants around Vancouver that made it hard to say no…

Even trickier than the evenings was the daytime when we’d finish up a coffee shop workday early and just want to hang out at home but the van was cold and dark and the volume at which you could hear pedestrians passing by made it clear how well they could hear you too. Again, not a sob story but it was the first time we really felt out of place. Sure, we have friends around the city who we’d frequently hang out with but you can’t rely on living room-hopping every day. For once, we struggled with feeling “at home” inside of our own house and that’s certainly not a great feeling. We even ventured around pockets of North Van and Commercial Drive where somewhat derelict RVs that haven’t moved in months line the industrial streets and give a clear indication that no one’s going to bother you for sleeping in your vehicle and still just didn’t feel comfortable. So why didn’t you just leave you might ask. Well, we had some scattered plans and work-related things to do in the city while counting down the days until some friends from the east were headed to town for a couple days before catching opening day in Whistler. On that note, let’s switch gears and focus on the positive experiences we had outside of feeling like complete vagrants.

We ate a ton of delicious food and probably got our season’s worth of ramen (is there ever too much?) while getting a chance to catch up with some friends we haven’t seen in a while and don’t get to see often. We checked out Queen Elizabeth Park, which was way nicer than we could have anticipated and it also had a very van-friendly street bordering it that we called home for a few nights. We finally bit the bullet and invested in some new batteries which took a hit on the wallet but were well worth the expense. With the change in seasons and the need for more lights and more furnace, our old battery really fell short. Check out our updated solar set-up post for all the technical deets.

Finally, once our cross-country buds arrived, we had a great time hanging out and parted ways always wishing we had more time together. As our time in the city came to a close, we felt equally excited and a tad nervous to venture over to the Island and truly begin our winter. Needing steady internet and conveniences like showers and groceries in the mildest temperatures we could wrangle, we figured we’d stay around Victoria and Nanaimo and hoped that our feelings of discomfort after being in the city for so long in Vancouver wouldn’t just carry over to new streets with different names.

In the interest of engine stress on Clemie, we decided to take the Crowsnest Highway again to get from Alberta to BC. Highway 1 through Golden and Kamloops is crazy beautiful but has more tricky mountain passes and we got word that the Coquihalla between Merrit and Hope had recently had a snowstorm so bad that it had to be closed – yikes. We took it as an opportunity to find new spots along the way that we didn’t check out last time. We passed through Fernie to get to a wicked spot near Jaffray called Suzanne Lake. It’s a secluded recreation area with plenty of trees and a lake with a mountain view. Being November, it was a bit chilly but this would probably be a super cool place to swim and boat in the summertime.

BC is absolutely killin’ it with the free recreation areas. It’s so refreshing to be in a province that actually wants you to get outside and enjoy your public land. They’ve established many of these free user-maintained recreation areas that make for perfect dry camping spots and even spoil you with an outhouse. It’s wonderful how easy you are to impress when you live in an 80 sq ft van with no running water.

After squeezing in a workday in Cranbrook, we geared up for the mountain pass we had been dreading: The Salmo Pass (Kootenay Pass) between Creston and Salmo. Our engine was in much healthier shape this time around but it’s still a bit nerve wrecking when you’re going up a steep uphill for what seems like an eternity. Signs at the bottom warned of slush and snow which seemed far off in the midst of mild temperatures and a misty rain. You can feel the air temperature drop as you ascend and suddenly everything – including the road – was covered in snow. Reaching the summit was nothing short of beautiful but turned the stress onto the brakes for the way down. We always just put it into low gear and tag along with the transport trucks to play it safe and thankfully it paid off. If you’ve done this drive and can’t understand our sentiments, it’s probably because you weren’t driving a vehicle that weighs over 10 000 lbs and pulls to the right.

We made our way north of Salmo to another recreation area called Erie Creek where we came face to face with a logging truck on a narrow dirt road. We had to reverse all the way until we were in a spot with enough room for the truck to pass – as always, I was very happy Justin was driving and not me. Once we got to the spot, we had a beautiful rainforest-looking campground all to ourselves with a neighbouring creek rushing by. It then began to rain consistently until morning but hey, you can’t win ‘em all.

We kept on cookin’ through Castlegar and Osoyoos before heading to another great BC recreation area near the Similkameen River in Keremeos. The drive the next day through the Hedley-Princeton area all felt very familiar but the mountain passes that followed seemed to take us by surprise. We took the Crowsnest Highway in the summer heading east and must have blocked out of our memories how steep and winding the road is around Copper Mountain and Manning Park. Anyway, it wasn’t anything too crazy and was beautiful everywhere you looked although our poor ears didn’t know what to think with all the elevation changes.

When we reached Hope we were disappointed to hear that forest fires and rockslides had closed off access to the Skagit River area. With some hesitation after reading several cautionary tales, we headed toward Chilliwack to make our way up a mountain to a BC Hydro recreation area called Jones Lake. We heard the road was rough and required 4×4 but after doing a bit of research, it seemed like our only challenge would be the steepness. And steep it was. To access the recreation area, you have to drive 9 km (5.6 mi) up a mountain where the first 3 km is all super steep switchbacks. A little intense but all in all, not too bad on the way up. By the time we reached the lake itself (actually called Wahleach Lake), we had forgotten about the drive altogether and had to pick our jaws up off the floor from how beautiful it was. A large lake surrounded by trees and mountains would be our backyard for the night.

We spent the night on the west tract of the recreation area and saw no one but a couple of Hydro workers leaving the site in the evening. In the morning, we explored the other side of the lake and parked on a beach to have our coffee. It seems there are a handful of interesting A-frame cabins on the east side of the lake where other people put up with the steep drive to spend their summers. Having no one around made the whole place feel very surreal and made us super stoked to get to experience it. Vanlife has brought us to so many amazing places off the beaten track that we probably wouldn’t have otherwise been to.

After a magical morning of sunshine and mountains, we got ready for the somewhat dreaded drive out. Remembering how steep the way up was, we knew the downhill was going to be pretty intense. The smell of burning rubber wasn’t so distant so we tried to give the brakes a break (ha) on a couple of the plateaus within the last few km’s of the mountain. Despite being in low gear and doing all the things we were supposed to, when we got to the bottom, the brakes were straight smokin’. Yup, our brakes had caught fire while struggling to hold back a very heavy van from dive-bombing straight into the surrounding forest. We were more so laughing than stressing and gave the van a chance to cool down before going any further. Somewhat luckily, there were huge puddles everywhere so driving through them a few times helped to sizzle down the steam.

That’s probably not how most people in the area started their day but it was just another day in the life for us and didn’t stop us from thinking that Jones Lake was totally worth it. Moving right along, we made a stop in Abbotsford to gym and shower before making our way into Vancouver and officially reaching the west coast yet again. With double digit temperatures and not a flake of snow on the road, we undeniably felt relieved to have made it back across the country in one piece. The plan now is to spend a couple weeks in the Vancouver area before making the last leg of our journey for the year onto Vancouver Island. We started 2018 off in Mexico and are so lucky to have gone to all of the places that we have and not completely lost our minds (maybe just a little).

Sailing into Horseshoe Bay on a warm May evening made for a pretty spectacular welcome back onto mainland BC. All of the smaller islands surrounding Vancouver Island and the luxurious shacks that sit atop them sparkled in the setting sun as our ferry docked about 15 minutes north of West Van. We didn’t want to deal with driving through the city after a long day cruising across the island so we headed north toward Squamish to hunker down for the night. Highway 99, or the Sea-to-Sky Highway, is kind of like a continuation of America’s Pacific Coast Highway that skims the rugged coastline all the way to Squamish before surrounding you in mountains as you head into Whistler. BC is full of scenic drives but this route in particular is pretty special.

We found a spot just off the highway with a glorious view of the islands (think Canada, not Galapagos) and the seemingly calm waters that separated us. Being so close to Vancouver, this was a fairly popular spot to camp with a small “village” of vanners forming as more people set up shop for the night. We’re not big fans of waking up early so luckily most of the folks had already set out for the day by the time we rolled out of bed and we had the views all to ourselves.

Over the next week, we got our fair dose of city life as we caught up with lots of friends and family in Vancouver. In fact, we experienced the ultimate Vancouver dream: living on a swanky street in Kitsilano lined with multi-million dollar houses while being steps from the beach and tons of bars and restaurants – oh and, for $0 in rent. City camping is not for everyone and definitely gets old pretty quick but it made for a great way to keep our expenses down while spending our days wandering around a big city. It can seem a little daunting at first to pick a spot where you’ll actually be able to sleep the night and not be woken up by relentless street noise or the fear of police knocking on your window in the middle of the night, so here are a few tips we’ve learned for successful stealth camping:

• Arrive after the sun goes down and already be ready for bed. This way, you don’t need to exit the van to go to the bathroom or have lights on to see your toothbrush. We like to stay in a public parking lot, like a grocery store or city park, and do all of our bedtime duties there so we can keep pretty low-key once we arrive at our spot. With this method, we’ll head out in the AM so folks might not have even noticed we were there at all.
• Otherwise, park the van in the day, put all the curtains down and leave. Leave for the whole day. People seem to be much less sketched out by a van in the daytime that seems to just be “forgotten” by nightfall. Nothing says CIA like a cargo van with a fake florist company’s logo rolling up at 7PM and not moving. In Key West, we parked near a hotel and left for the day to be tourists and didn’t return until after midnight – this made the van seem more like any other commuter vehicle than our house.
• Don’t let anyone see you enter/exit the vehicle. In line with previous points, you either leave for the day and don’t return until people go to bed or you arrive when people are already in bed. Don’t make it seem like your van is your home base and that you’re quite obviously living out of your vehicle.
• If possible, opt for a spot that’s not directly in front of a single-family home. We like to park in front of apartment buildings or be across the street from churches or businesses so it seems like it could be anyone’s vehicle. Are the folks in unit 2A having visitors? Who knows? Also, who cares? By the time anyone actually pursues it, you’ll be gone.
• Finally the obvious ones: Don’t make excessive noise. Use minimal lights. Make sure people can’t see your stuff when you’re gone for the day but make sure that what people can see is clean and tidy. Essentially, fly under the radar the best you can. No need to draw any extra attention to your rig or become the eyesore of a neighbourhood with take-out containers and receipts filling the dash. Also, decreasing the likelihood of getting broken into is always the name of the game so don’t have anything worthwhile visible – we even make it a point to not leave spare change on the front console.

We spent the week working while eating good food, hanging out at the beach and catching up with old friends. We even dabbled in “vegan chicken wings”, AKA cauliflower wings, that were way tastier than we would have ever imagined – and that says a lot coming from two devoted carnivores. Being such an expensive city to live in, we were pretty lucky to bring our accommodations with us and have nice enough weather to walk EVERYWHERE. That is one thing that I love about cities, an hour walk to meet up with your friend turns into an adventure in itself with all the interesting things to see and colourful folks to people watch (in the least creepy way possible). Of course the main downside about being in the city is that you can’t help but spend money – how can you turn down a fresh bowl of delicious ramen when all you have in the van is Mr. Noodles?! That being said, we’ll just focus on the money we saved in accommodation and transportation and not the money we spent on food…

The time finally came where we were sick of the city and desperately wanted to be back in the woods. We left the sky-high Vancouver gas prices behind and drove past Chilliwack to Hope, BC where we found ourselves a spot on the Skagit River. Given the season, the rivers were quite high as the snow from the mountains was in prime melting time but this had to be the fastest moving river I’ve ever seen. It looked like someone put this river on fast-forward and just left it. Anyway, it felt good to be back in nature until we took a look around the campsite and it was covered in trash. California was bad for litterbugs but this was downright disgusting – the previous campers had attempted to burn all their unneeded camping gear so the fire pit had an ashy camping chair in it while wrappers and beer boxes were scattered throughout. The kicker though, was that they left two chicken cutlets on a cooking grill on the fire pit. You don’t need to be all that “bear aware” to know that that’s not a good idea – ever. So we cleaned it all up and finished their botched burning job to leave the spot as a campsite instead of a pigsty.

Coastal BC has been amazing so we’re stoked to head into the mountains and start exploring the interior. Summer is upon us and Canada is full of what we call Crown Land (similar to BLM lands in the States) so we’re gearing up for a few months of amazing free camping. Follow along on our new Camping Directory where we’ll continuously share all the hidden gems we uncover. Shoot us a message or leave a comment with any must-see spots anywhere from BC to Newfoundland – we’re doing it all!